Canadian Canoe and Kayak Wilderness Adventures
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What Kind of River is the Burnside?

The Burnside River is a classic tundra river flowing into the Arctic Ocean. Isolated and rugged, it offers challenging whitewater, dramatic scenery and abundant wildlife.

The landscape is dramatic with rolling tundra punctuated by narrow canyons, waterfalls and sandy beaches. Good hiking opportunities are frequent and wildlife is plentiful. Caribou and musk oxen, in particular, are abundant.

History
The Burnside area has been well used by the Inuit for a long time. Their passage through the area is marked by the numerous archaeological sites along the river. Tent rings and graves can be seen at several locations. The most important known site is on the tiny Island of Nadlak, located just downstream from Kathawachaga Lake. The name in Inuktituk means, 'place where the deer cross'. Here in the summer of 1985 and 1986, the National Museum of Civilization unearthed more than 40,000 segments of caribou antlers that formed the framework for several winter homes used by a semi-permanent group of Copper Inuit. These people were driven south from the Arctic Ocean during the mini-ice age that took place between the early 1500's and the 1800's. Needles and tools, more common to the Dene people who lived south of the tree line, were also found at the site, leading the archaeologists to conclude that the Dene had some sort of trading system in place. After the cold spell, it is believed that the Inuit returned to Bathurst Inlet. Today, there are only about 25 people living in the community of Bathurst Inlet and another 60 at Bay Chimo, 100 kilometres to the north.

Sir John Franklin explored the area in 1821 - 22. With a party of 20 men, he travelled along the river, naming Belanger rapids after one of his crew. It wasn't until 1920 that a permanent settlement was established at Bathurst Inlet. In that year, the explorer Charles Klengenburg wintered his crew and schooner at the Inlet. Fourteen years later the Hudson Bay Company established a trading post there. However, the community actually grew around a mineral exploration site established in 1929. In 1964, the HBC pulled out of Bathurst Inlet Lodge.

The Inuit families living in the community today have chosen an isolated and traditional way of life. However, in the summer the community, in conjunction with Tricia and Glen Warner from Yellowknife, operate Bathurst Inlet Lodge. The lodge is well known world wide as a naturalist's retreat.

Geography
The Burnside originates at Contwoyto Lake. It then flows across the Contwoyto Plateau which rises out of the Precambrian Shield. This plateau has an average elevation of 460 metres (1500 feet) and is characterized by granite boulder till mixed with sand. Eskers are very common features on this rolling landscape. The hills above the river valley provide impressive views of the surrounding countryside.

Near the ocean, the Burnside enters the Wilberforce Hills region, characterized by deep river valleys, spectacular cliffs and canyons. This is especially evident along the final few kilometres of the river.

Weather
One of the most important factors influencing any canoe trip is the weather. Nowhere is this more true than on the barren lands. Here the weather can change very quickly and high winds whipping across hundreds of miles of flat landscape can create extremely dangerous paddling conditions in a very short time. This can be especially true on big lakes such as Contwoyto or Kathawachaga. Winds are also funnelled along the river valley causing poor travelling conditions. Because of this, we have scheduled extra days in our trip itinerary.

Be prepared for a wide range of weather conditions. The weather on the tundra can present us with a never ending challenge. Summer weather in the area may vary from intense, round-the-clock hot sun to foggy windy cool days, enhanced further by rain, sleet and even snow. The mean daily maximum temperature during the summer months is approximately 15oC (60F), but temperatures ranging into the 20's (80F) or down to 0oC (32F) and below may occur at any time. Precipitation is light - less than 250mm/yr (10 inches) -with much of this falling as rain during the spring and summer. Our clothing list in 'The Details' package takes all of these conditions into account.

Flora
The Burnside flows entirely through the tundra. Because this area is a zone of continuous permafrost, the tallest plants, dwarf willow and alder, are rarely more than a metre high (3 feet). Several varieties of lichen and moss carpet the ground along with species of wild flowers and berries. The variety and number of wild flowers in the Burnside valley is vast, numbering more than 125 different common and showy plants found along the river.

Of the vast array of species enjoyed on the June 1998 Burnside River Expedition,

Arctic Lupine, Moss-campion, Mountain Avens, Lapland Rosebay, Wooly Louswort, Rock Tripe, Map Lichen, Northern White Anemone, Jewel Lichen, Antler Lichen, Worm Lichen, Arctic Cotton Grass, Dwarf Birch, Cuckoo Flower, Richardson's Anemone, Birdfoot Buttercup, Arctic Poppy, Snow Cinquefoil, Purple Mountain Saxifrage, Northern Sweet Vetch, Cowberry, Bog Rosemary, White Arctic Heather, Bearberry, Labrador Tea, Blueberry, Alpine Azalea, Butterwort, Large Flowered Wintergreen, Alpine Arnica, Capitate Lousewort, Lingonberry, Star Chickweed, Shrubby Cinquefoil, Yellow Oxytrope, Arctic Oxytrope, Crowberry, Salix Willow, Netveined Willow, Green Alder, Dwarf Fireweed, Fragrant Sheild Fern, Horsetail, Club Moss, Lyme Grass, Blue Grass, Yellow Wallflower, Blubet Saxifrage, Thrift, Arctic Harebell, Arctic Lousewort, Labrador Lousewort, Lapland Lousewort.

Wildlife
Musk oxen and caribou are the two most commonly seen animals along the river. The Bathurst caribou herd, which numbers over 300,000 animals, crosses the river on its way to and from its calving grounds along the east side of Bathurst Inlet around the Elise River. Huge numbers of caribou often follow along the river in late June or early July. Wolves, which follow the herd, may be seen along the river and there are many good denning sites in the area.

You can learn about the Porcupine Caribou herd that ranges in the Firth region. On the Mining Co.'s Guide to Arctic/Northern Culture Web site you can view a map which monitors the progress of ten caribou who are radio collared and tracked by satellite. An amazing feature that records a remarkable phenomena.

Musk oxen can be seen along the length of the river, appearing individually or in groups of 30 or more. Photographers can get quite close, but should keep in mind that musk oxen have been known to charge and cause serious injury.

Grizzly bears are also seen along the river. Caution is advised in this regard when hiking or camping. We carry both bear spray and a shotgun. Although we have had many bear sightings over the years, we have never had to use either deterrent.

Wolverines, foxes, Arctic hares, Arctic ground squirrels and several other small mammals are also found.

In the Wilberforce Hills region there are many birds of prey. Notably, peregrine and gyrfalcon, as well as golden eagles and rough-legged hawks. These magnificent birds make their nests on the rocky cliffs along the river.

Arctic char, lake trout, arctic grayling and whitefish are found in both the river and the lakes. We try as much as possible to use 'pinch' or barbless hooks and carefully release most of the fish we catch. Remember to purchase your Nunavut fishing license in Yellowknife before we leave.

Reading List
Your guides will carry a small reference library that will include field reference books. Following are some books for winter reading

" Narrative of a journey to the shores of the Polar Sea in the years 1819,20,21 & 22: By Sir John Franklin, M.G. Hurtig, Edmonton, 1971.
" Narrative of a second expedition to the shores of the Polar Sea in the Years 1825, 1826 & 1827: By Sir John Franklin, M.G. Hurtig, Edmonton, 1971.
" Summer North of Sixty: by Paddle and Portage Across the Barren Lands: By James Raffan, Key Porter Books, Toronto, 1990.
" Caribou of the Barren Lands By George Calef. Canadian Arctic Resources Committee: Firefly Books. Scarborough, Ont. 1981.
" The Incredible Eskimo By DeCoccoa & King. Hancock House:, Surrey, BC. 1986.
" The Muskox of Polar Bear Pass: By David R. Grey, Fitzhenry & Whiteside, Markham, ON, 1987.
" Barrenland Beauties. Showy Plants of the Arctic Coast: Page Burt. Outcrop, Yellowknife, NWT., 1991.
" A Naturalists Guide to the Arctic: By E.C. Chris Pielou. The University of Chicago Press. Chicago.

Field guides of the Birds, Flowers and Mammals are carried by your Guide/Naturalists for your enjoyment.

You are welcome to read and use these throughout the expedition.